All this said, ~7 weeks of effort is still probably the fastest ascent yet of a V17. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. There is a stepdown of about 1. . " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. . Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. 03:02:34Download the app . The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. Video escalada: Alphane V17, el cuarto 9a de boulder propuesto por Shawn Raboutou 26/09/2022. Since the pandemic, he’s made the transition from World Cups to outdoor climbing, and has systematically been sending some of the world’s. Dwelling » Climbing » Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of ‘Alphane’ (V17), Evades Grade Query The world’s third V17 boulder drawback has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the road in August 2022. But Bosi’s skill set isn’t just restricted to wrestling. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11 , and was discovered by Dave Graham. Pictures and analysis included. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V1The cherry on top came over the last few weeks, during which Kiersch had the best bouldering trip of her life, in Magic Wood, Switzerland. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi’s training development and present tactics. Or maybe it is just that Alphane offers more days of reliable conditions, vs. This seventeen-move masterpiece had been a futuristic project for several top climbers for quite a while until young crusher Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent in 2022. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. People have to come into agreement on how much harder v17 should be in comparison to v16. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Although only Raboutou managed to finish the line, all three felt V17 was likely accurate. . Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) finally sees a repeat by Scottish climber Will Bosi. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. DWoods has one of the most impressive bouldering (multiple V17’s), comp (multiple world cups wins), and sport climbing (multiple hard 5. The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Aidan Roberts has repeated Alphane (Font 9A) at Chironico, in Ticino, Switzerland. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for. Or perhaps Alphane is low in the grade for V17 (still V17, but there's room in a grade for harder and easier problems). There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. Roberts, 24, has accumulated an impressive list of hard bouldering ticks. Listen to your favorite songs from Alphane V17 by Hestal Now. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. Oh No moments from the popular history animation series from Oversimplified. Connect With Us Home » Climbing » With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat The world’s third V17 boulder downside now has a second graduate, with the…Girls Gone Hueco is an exciting new bouldering film from climber and producer Midori Buechli. Will Bosi and Aidan have both previously climbed Font 8C+ but Aidan's repeat of Alphane is. On February 26, 63-year-old Ken Nichols made his 10,000th ascent of the traditional route Dol Guldur (5. Will Bosi update, Brits in Spain, and Coley 8C . Listen to the full episode 👉 you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names. There are certainly climbers that have done more V17 boulders if that is the benchmark of "strongest". The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17, making it at the time. For a 3-4 move V17, those guys might have to spend months before they even do each move individually. You can watch his FA of Unison V15 below. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Low. television from adventure filmmakers Sender Films, marking the first series dedicated to rock climbing ever to be aired on U. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. I say "about five" because there are a couple of originally proposed V17s that have seen multiple ascents and now have some skepticism over the grades. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Repeated just a few weeks ago by Aidan Roberts , the boulder just. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an ‘amazing experience. The only other suggested V17 is Nalle Hukkataival’s 2016 problem Burden of Dreams, located in the forests of Finland. Check out the latest. Different experience working these types of problems. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Back in Indian Creek feeling so strong and happy! (Excuse Station, 5. Be part of the community. After the send, Will said “It feels unbelievable right now! The new Alphane V17 is also in an accessible major destination, so I bet it will see a lot of suitors. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. This year, Shawn Raboutou established Alphane and Megatron and graded them both V17 – read more about them here. Other notable ascents are listed. Update August 22, 2022: In conjunction with The. Alphane is the third or fourth V17 in the world depending on who you ask (Soudain Seul technically holds the position but the grade is debated). 15b, and put up two 5. This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first. . Nick Brown UKC. 8" - 20 mm shallow 3 finger pocket. In this week's Ticklist, Rob Greenwood talks us through Shawn Raboutou's new Font 9A/V17 in Chironico, Switzerland, a problem that has been kept quiet for th. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Video escalada: Alphane V17, el cuarto 9a de boulder propuesto por Shawn Raboutou. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Shawn and Brooke Raboutou grew up in a family of world-champion climbers with their mother, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, and father, Didier Raboutou, setting a high bar indeed. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. Will Bosi has made the first repeat of possibly the hardest boulder in the world “Burden Of Dreams”. You can watch the full climb no. Charles Barkley definitely knows how to roast people, but it's always funny when someone decides to roast him back. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. The Nugget Climbing Podcast dizisinden EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style bölümünü ve 208 bölümü ücretsiz dinle! Üyelik veya indirme gerekmez. Since Hukkataival ascent, several other V17s have been claimed. The withdrawal force per inch of penetration can be estimated as F = 2850 (0. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. K. 11. Will Bosi, Scottish crimpmonster ahoy, recently visited Chironico in Switzerland in the company of Aidan Roberts. If Alphane is confirmed to be Font 9A, Will's ascent will make him just the 8th person to have climbed the grade. The problem was first established by Orrin Coley in March 2023. Alphane 9A/V17, Forgotten Gem 8C/V15 and Vecchio flash 8B/V13 Sam Pratt filmInstagram - to my sponsors:adidas five. Or maybe Shawn and Aiden working together sped up their process (vs Nalle and Daniel trying their projects alone). converted to rounded metric with description in case any other non UK person is interested: (#1) - 1. And yes we are scared of falling. Pictures and analysis included. As though this wouldn’t be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three World’s V16, climbing it. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar “résumé. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Becoming the first 9A/V17 in Switzerland and only the third in the world, Alphane is the latest and greatest example of Rabatou's talents, clearing defining him as one of the very best bouldererA 70m is enough with the stretch. Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. Will Bosi has released a film that documents his send of Alphane V17, as well as ascents of Forgotten Gem V15 and Vecchio Flash V13. A documentary about Nalle Hukkataival’s four-year journey to establish the hardest boulder problem in the world, Burden of Dreams (9A/V17). K. 4. Download the app . His success on the project has been a badly kept secret in the climbing world and rumours were circulating as soon as he reported his other 9A, Alphane. Stream ad-free with Amazon Music Unlimited on mobile, desktop, and tablet. French minimalist "Barefoot Charles" Albert has announced what he believes is his hardest send to date, L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), proposing a grade of 9A/V17. It took him practically 4 years to ship the issue and it has but […]Looking to build a freestanding hangboard stand with a bunch of 2x4's i have laying around. A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) Raboutou and Roberts on V16’s . Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V15/13/10 - Dai Koyamada from Japan has done the second ascent of The Story of Two Worlds, likely one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. 107K views 1 month ago. Below you will find the complete list of the hardest boulder problems in 2023. Two V17 climbers are in Finland projecting Burden of Dreams V17 (9A). We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video. He hit the deck and sustained minor injury to his feet, hips and back but he's essentially OK. Climbing - Steven Potter. Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history. Ghisolfi makes progress on individual. Raboutou has had an incredible year, also making the first ascent of Alphane in Switzerland. 15’s) resumes of any climber. While in the U. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ol. Read more on gripped. Rock climbing without ropes, bouldering relies on specialized gear (pads and shoes) and techniques for training and protection closer to the ground. “With a handful of existing 8c+ [V16] boulders in the world, proposing 9a [V17] is the logical step. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. His most noteworthy ascents, however, have to be Megatron and Alphane, both of which are V17 boulders. He established Soudain Seul V17 in Fontainebleau in 2021 and then repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 in 2022. UKC News 14 Apr 2023. The V-scale is the most widely used scale in North America. Shawn Raboutou has been taking the climbing world by storm in recent years, defying gravity with his superhuman strength. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. Aidan is, hands down, one of the strongest climbers the UK has ever produced! He began his career as a comp climber, however, in more recent years, he has turned his attention to incredible feats on boulders outdoors! He claimed the second ascent of Alphane (V17/9A) in Switzerland in October 2022; closely followed by fellow Lattice Athlete. But Drew is certainly building one of the most impressive bases of 14s, 15s, and 16s while also studying for an engineering degree. Last spring, he made the first ascent of Honey Badger (hard V16). Now, his sights are firmly set on what is considered the hardest boulder problem in the world - Burden of Dreams (V17/9A). We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans. The. Shawn was asked about it and basically said that while he's not really keeping it secret, he just doesn't like to blab about his ascents. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Discover something new every day from News, Sports, Finance, Entertainment and more!455 votes, 52 comments. Lots of tangents and rambles as well as hopefully thought provoking questions. Rumors have been circulating for months that American climber Shawn Raboutou has completed two eye-popping boulder projects. Simon Lorenzi is one of the best boulderers in the world. Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. . It was the last time anyone has climbed. The line is to the left of Alphane Moon 8A. The problem adds seven moves of V15 climbing into Tron, V14, a line established by Daniel Woods in 2017. EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects,. The line is to the left of Alphane Moon 8A. ℗© 2023 Hestal. In the opening scene he. The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it wasn't until this summer that he announced the ascent. . Instead, he worked the climb at Lattice Training’s. There’s Big Drama at the Top of Mount Everest. “My Uncut send footage of potentially my longest boulder project,” Bosi said, “adding a low start to Wild West V13. . On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. Stephano Ghisolfi Tries Alphane V17 In new video, Ghisolfi meets up with Shawn Raboutou to attempt the moves on one of the hardest problems in the world. In total, she put down 16 double digit boulders, two of which were V14. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. On November 19, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Megatron ‘. Raboutou, Roberts, and Bosi Projecting Switzerland’s Hardest Lines. This year however, she took quite a slump and barely made three. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. This week's video is the much anticipated, feature length film from Mellow showcasing Shawn Rabatou's epic new line, Alphane. In October last year, he repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Simon Lorenzi On Making the 4th Ascent of “Alphane” He spent 20+ days on the climb and says "Alphane". Woods, who has established his own V17 and numerous V16s, has put quite a lot of effort into the sit start and other talented climbers have tried the problem without success, including Drew Ruana, who estimates he has spent 70 days trying the project. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Expand user menu Open settings menu Open settings menuEP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style 1 Nov 2022 · The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Lytt til EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style og 256 andre episoder av The Nugget Climbing Podcast, gratis! Ingen registrering eller nedlasting kreves. Слухайте EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style та ще 242 епізоди у The Nugget Climbing Podcast, безкоштовно! Без реєстрації чи установки. But Drew is certainly building one of the most impressive bases of 14s, 15s, and 16s while also studying for an engineering degree. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle. 726K views 1 year ago. Have a Multitool or EDC Question? Leave a comment and I may make a video on it!Website: Shop: h. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Shawn aime bien faire sa petite affaire sans avoir à poster ses réalisations sur Instagram. Categories: News Tags. The problem links a V15 start into the V14 Tron, a stand start version of the problem first put up by Woods in 2017. He was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up several V16 first ascents, including the U. . Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style. In 2022, he repeated Adam Ondra’s Move 5. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. Alphane 9A/V17 | Will Bosi. Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland broke her own Speed world record with a time of 6. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed. After getting some beta from Shawn Raboutou, Ghisolfi jumps on Alphane V17, Raboutou’s first ascent from earlier this year. Categories: Video Tags: News. K. Bosi claimed the third ascent of Alphane, which is in Ticino, Switzerland, last fall. 15c] with his FA of King Capella in Siurana, Spain. The home of Climbing on reddit. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. The 24-year-old Brit needed only three days to FA Unison (V15), in Ticino, Switzerland. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. 15d), DNA (5. Directed and filmed by Gilles Charlier, this video documents Simon's process and approach to climbing at ones l. 2-3 (inverse weekdays) do pull ups/hangs and yoga and whatever is in season, then drink beer. Alphane saw its fourth ascent on the 15th of December 2022 by Simon Lorenzi after spending a few sessions on it throughout the year. ago. Will has confirmed the grade at 9A/V17. 8K. This afternoon, Raboutou. Alexander Megos ended the year in style by redpointing First Round, First Minute (9b/5. It’s nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other. It’s nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other gnarly climbs like Raboutou’s own. . Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. . The latter took him. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. The people who have done 1 grade harder on one style (15c or v17) are Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Sean Bailey, Will Bosi. Aidan Roberts. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). K. Will Bosi’s has made the first ascent of Wild South V15 at Raven Tor in U. aw sheet here we go againYou voted, you get it. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Kinda makes sense as a process, actually, and is likely more effective than bludgeoning the climb for 4 months straight. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Gripped June 21, 2023. The home of Climbing on reddit. ”. Get more from The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle Hukkataival’s “Burden of Dreams” and Daniel. Since Hukkataival ascent, several other V17s have been claimed. He has climbed four 5. The V17 climber puts down one of his oldest projects. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans. Natalie Berry UKC. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Working it alongside Raboutou were Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. Aaron Pardy November 16, 2022. Aidan Roberts and Sam Prior host this climbing-themed podcast that kind of goes where it goes. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. Shawn Raboutou on Burden. Both problems have only one ascent. But where did he come from? Well, if you need a primer on Will Bosi’s plot arc—and how his abandonment of comps played into that—Adidas Terrex has a great new video about his journey to the top of the bouldering. He also put up a V16 of his own, Honey Badger in the U. N to 5. A long-standing project in Colorado finally gets done, becoming one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson —. CWIF 2023, Bosi on Burden, and Hazelnutt Slab . In 2019 Charles Albert claimed V17 for his FA of No Kpote Only, also in. Since July, Bosi has sent two V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. V17/9A is currently the hardest boulder grade in the world. roberts98) Serendipity V14 Repeat. Natalie Berry UKC. A post shared by Aidan Roberts (@aidan. Jimmy Chin, renowned climber, skier, mountaineer, and photographer, describes his admiration for the diverse landscapes of Grand Teton National Park. Notable Ascents. Join to Unlock. Ephyra V16 (8C+) is located in Switzerland and was originally climbed by Jimmy. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who. . Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh, has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. Nico Pelorson, has taken a break from projecting Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane (V17) to climb Guiliano Cameroni’s Squalo Bianco (V14) and Dave Graham’s elusive classic From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15). He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. Photo by Patty Kline. Only three V17 problems. Alphane. Originally graded 5. Interview: Aidan Roberts on Repeating Alphane, V17. Amputee Ascents - Shelf Road, CO Menses Prow. This video reflects on the good and bad of my 1-4-7 journey. Remember when Aidan sent Alphane and became the second person to send this infamous V17? Tom Randall managed to sit down with Aidan Roberts fresh off Alphane (9A/V17) to find out more about what went into this historic send! This proves to be a rather inspirational. This video is the third in a series titled “National Parks Epic Challenge,” produced by The National Park Foundation. television. Dans la vidéo mise-en-line il y a deux. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. Gripped December 16, 2022. After he announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic. This is not the first time Ghisolfi has tried a V17 boulder problem. Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi quickly retrod Raboutou’s tracks on “Alphane,” his last V17 FA — which he posted in August. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Low. Steven Potter Published Jun 5, 2023. 11/1/10 - The Travel Channel has picked up groundbreaking documentary series "First Ascent" for U. Dreams was the first proposed V17 after the Finnish climber took the problem down in September 2016, following over 4,000 attempts and six seasons. Then sent within about a week or so. 323. Unlike many modern rock climbers, Raboutou remained secretive about his trip’s ascents, posting only humorous vacation photos in one of the world’s most beautiful locations. EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real. He was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up several V16 first ascents, including the U. Last month the British climber Will Bosi joined an elite club that includes just Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and now himself—he is the sixth person ever to climb 9b+ [5. The problem, located on the back side of the Rocher Brûlé boulder, rose to prominence in January 2019 after Charles Albert made the first ascent of the line (barefoot) and proposed the grade of 9A/V17. Watch on. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. . 15c] with his FA of King Capella in Siurana, Spain. For more than a month now, Will Bosi has been working on Burden of Dreams, a Finnish V17 first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival and contender for the most famous unrepeated boulder problem in the world. Aidan Roberts has repeated Alphane (Font 9A) at Chironico, in Ticino, Switzerland. 1. Although it is open-ended, the range of the scale so far is V0 - V17, meaning that the most difficult bouldering surface climbed so far was rated V17. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. Gripped April 29, 2023. Listen to EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style and 264 more episodes by The Nugget Climbing Podcast. It was the culmination of a three month journey. Gripped December 16, 2022. Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser). I'm curious what people's experiences have been with training finger strength, and how that has consequently affected their endurance. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. It’s a powerful problem on a big boulder at the edge of a field in Val Bavona, Switzerland. "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. I think this shows the strength of modern boulderers and the rarity of V17 rock. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. com. Back in October 2022, he spent a session working the moves of Alphane V17 with Shawn Raboutou. What was harder, Alphane (V17) or Burden of Dreams (V17)? Would Will have sent BoD this trip without the replica? 👇Listen to the interview to find out!👇Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. In a stoke-filled Instagram post, Roberts described a joyful process for ticking off “ Alphane ,” established by Shawn Raboutou in Fionnay, Switzerland, in August. a the Island Sit Start—a V16 or V17 in Fontainebleau, has done the fourth ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane, saying that the two problems feel similar in difficulty. The route, first climbed by Chris Sharma in April 2011, is the young German’s hardest redpoint yet. 2-3 nights a week, I hangdog at the gym, maybe take some whippers, do a little flailing, and then drink beer. K. ℗© 2023 Hestal. "The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the world to climb two V17’s. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. Shawn Raboutou about to send 'Alphane' V17 (the third in the world!) Hi Everyone! We hope you've had a great summer full of fun and sends. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. View this post on Instagram. According to the French climbing magazine Grimper, Charles Albert, a French climber known for hard barefoot ascents, has made the first ascent of a Fontainebleau problem and proposed 9a/V17 for the grade. Rumors have been circulating for months that Shawn Raboutou has made not one but two V17 first ascents. Sign in. 1 SONG • 5 MINUTES • OCT 20 2023. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Keen readers of Climbing will remember my frequent coverage of another route at Pavey Ark, Lexicon (E11 7a/5. 11) at Traprock in Connecticut. . We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. Photo by Boone Speed. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5. Lowering is simpler and thus slightly safer. Simon Lorenzi has repeated Alphane. Download the app . "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. What an incredible journey! Thanks a lot for the support 🙏🏼 I’ll comment more soon 😁. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Will Bosi claims the third ascent of Alphane. Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldCheck out this great listen on Audible. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. . In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Matt Fultz has made the second ascent of the stunning Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+/V16) in Brione, Switzerland. Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes. . “My Uncut send footage of potentially my longest boulder project,” Bosi said, “adding a low start to Wild West V13. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. A friend of mine was climbing on 12/8 in Oklahoma when he fell onto 2 Omega Pacific Link Cams. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and. (Photo/The Spot Boulder) When The Spot — now known as The Spot Boulder, part of a chain of four Colorado gyms — opened in 2002, it was one of the first. Alphane (V17) Alphane is a testament to Graham’s vision and perseverance. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). In the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosi’s fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13).